How Much Is It Worth? Check Any Item's Sold Price Free

Type the item above to see what people actually paid on eBay for the same thing, in the same condition, recently. That’s what it’s worth, not the highest asking price you can find. Don’t know what it is? Start with a photo (here’s how).

How to check what something is worth in 3 steps

1. Name it exactly. Brand, model or style, size, and anything printed on it: a model number, barcode, ISBN or tag. “Pyrex 4 cup measuring cup” finds the right sales; “glass measuring cup” doesn’t.
2. Look at sold prices, not asking prices. The box above searches sold and completed listings only. Skip anything that isn’t the same item, the same size or set, and a similar condition.
3. Use the middle, then take off costs. Take the typical price from the matches, not the best one. If you’re reselling, subtract the marketplace fee and what you paid. What’s left is what it’s worth to you.

Don’t know what it is?

Search needs a name. If there’s no brand or model on it, try one of these:

• Google Lens (free, in the Google app) is very good at names. In our test it named 25 of 28 thrift store items exactly. It shows new retail and asking prices though, never used sold prices, so take the name it gives you and search it above. More in Google Lens vs a resale scanner.
• Underpriced (our app) names the item from a photo, then shows the matching sold listings, the typical price and what you’d keep after fees. In our test of five apps on 29 thrift finds, its values were the closest to real sold prices. Try it free for 7 days. Check an item from a photo.
• Look for marks. Flip it over. Pottery marks, tags, model plates and ISBNs are usually on the bottom, back or inside.

Six real thrift finds, valued end to end

We photographed these at Value Village and the Salvation Army in September and October 2026 and looked up their eBay sold prices by hand: last 90 days, pre-owned, exact matches only. “You keep” is the sold median minus eBay’s fee and the tag price, with the buyer paying shipping. eBay charges its fee on the item price plus shipping and sales tax, so the fee is a bit more than most people expect.

Look at the ranges. The Under Armour hoodie sold for as much as $94.96 once, but the typical sale was $13.50. If you priced from the top of the range you’d pay $16.49 for something that loses money. That’s the most common pricing mistake we see.

The other one is mixing up asking and sold prices. Google Lens showed the Sharp calculator in shop listings from about $77 to $137. It sells for about $17.

Get a number you can trust

• Match the condition. Used and new sell for very different prices. Use the “pre-owned” filter on eBay if your item is used.
• Match the set. A box set, a lot of five or a version with accessories isn’t the same item. Leave those out.
• Watch for best offers. When a listing sold with “best offer accepted”, eBay’s public search shows the asking price, not what the buyer paid. Treat those as high. If you sell on eBay, Product Research in Seller Hub shows the accepted price.
• Need 5 or more matches. With fewer, you don’t really know the price yet. Wider searches (brand plus type) give you a feel, not a value.
• Recent beats old. The last 90 days tells you today’s market. A sale from three years ago is history.

At the thrift store: the 30-second version

Most items aren’t worth checking. Check the ones with a name you recognize, a model number, or a tag that seems low for what it is. These are the aisles where a check most often pays off:

• Clothing: premium and outdoor brands, workwear (Carhartt, Dickies, vintage Levi’s), athletic brands (Nike, Lululemon), band and graphic tees, outerwear.
• Shoes: name-brand sneakers and boots with plenty of wear left.
• Kitchen and home: Pyrex, cast iron, enameled Dutch ovens, mid-century pieces.
• Electronics: vintage audio, cameras, game consoles and anything with a printed model number.
• Toys, games and media: complete board games, LEGO, video games, and books or DVDs with a barcode you can scan.

Then do this quick sum:

What you’d keep = the typical sold price, minus about a quarter of it for fees, minus the tag price.

A quarter sounds like a lot, but on a cheap item eBay’s fee on the shipping and tax adds up: on the $19 Pyrex cup it came to $4.64. So a $19 cup with a $5.49 tag leaves about $19 minus $4.64 minus $5.49, or $8.87.

Underpriced’s profit check does this sum for you from a photo and the tag price.

If that’s under about $5, or the item is big, fragile or slow to sell, put it back. A full cart of $2 profits is a lot of listing and shipping work. Also put it back when:

• You can’t name it closely enough to find the same item sold. A guess at the identity is a guess at the price.
• There’s damage you can’t judge. Stains, cracks and missing parts change the price and add work.
• It’s untested electronics. Unless you can check it works, price it as parts.
• Plenty are listed but few have sold. Lots of active listings with thin sales means you’d be joining a queue. For the exact fee on your item, use the flip profit calculator or compare marketplace fees.

When you need more than a sold search

• Antiques, art, jewelry and anything rare: sold searches can be thin or misleading. A specialist or a qualified appraiser is the safer route, especially if the value matters for insurance, an estate or a donation.
• Luxury and designer goods: a sold price says nothing about whether yours is real. Get it authenticated before you price it.
• No sales at all: search the brand and type for comparable items, and price conservatively. No sales can also mean nobody’s buying.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I find out what something is worth for free?

Search the exact item on eBay with the sold filter on (the box at the top of this page does that). Look at matches in the same condition and use the typical price, not the highest. Google Lens can help you find the name if you don’t know it.

Should I use sold or active listings?

Sold. Active listings are asking prices, and many never sell. In our test, shop listings for a printing calculator ran from about $77 to $137 while it actually sold for about $17.

Can I take a picture of something and find out what it’s worth?

Yes. Google Lens is free and good at telling you what it is, but it doesn’t show used sold prices: in our test, every price it showed was a new retail price or an asking price. Take the name from Lens and search the sold prices in the box at the top of this page. A resale app does both from one photo: Underpriced names the item, then shows the matching sold listings and the typical price. Whatever you use, check that the number comes from sold listings of the same item, not asking prices.

Is an app’s value estimate an appraisal?

No. An app estimate, ours included, is a research shortcut based on recent sales. An appraisal is a written opinion from a qualified person, which you need for insurance, estates, donations and legal uses.

Related guides

• How to use eBay sold listings
• Google Lens vs a resale scanner
• Best reseller apps, tested on real thrift finds
• Free antique appraisal options