Hummel Values 2026: Figurine Price Guide

Reading time: 18 minutes

Hummel values in 2026 cannot be read from the trademark alone. The useful sequence is: confirm that the piece is an M.I. Hummel, record the HUM model and size suffix, identify the trademark era, disclose condition and repairs, then compare recent sales of that same configuration.

If you’ve recently inherited a curio cabinet full of Hummel figurines, the natural first question is: “Are these things actually worth anything?”

The honest answer is complicated. Older insurance schedules, retail receipts, and price guides describe a different kind of value from a completed secondary-market sale today. Collections also mix common later production with scarcer models, sizes, marks, and groups. Treat the cabinet as an inventory to identify, not as one uniform lot.

Before donating or bulk-selling the lot, pull aside early marks, uncommon HUM numbers, large variations, multi-figure groups, matched pairs, and pieces with original boxes. This guide shows how to identify those differences and build a defensible sold-comps search without pretending that one mark guarantees a price.

What Are Hummel Figurines?

Hummel figurines trace their origins to the artwork of Berta Hummel, a German artist born in 1909 in Massing, Bavaria. Berta showed extraordinary artistic talent from a young age and studied at the Academy of Applied Arts in Munich. In 1931, she entered the Franciscan convent at Siessen and took the religious name Sister Maria Innocentia Hummel. Despite her religious life, she continued drawing and painting, creating charming, whimsical images of rosy-cheeked Bavarian children engaged in everyday activities, playing, singing, walking to school, tending geese, and picking flowers. Her artwork was published as postcards and prints throughout Germany in the early 1930s, and they became immensely popular.

In 1935, Franz Goebel, the fourth-generation head of the W. Goebel Porzellanfabrik in Rödental, Germany, saw Hummel’s postcards and recognized their potential as three-dimensional figurines. He negotiated a licensing agreement with the Siessen Convent, and Goebel began producing the first M.I. Hummel figurines that year. Sister Maria Innocentia approved the models based on her artwork. She died of tuberculosis in 1946 at 37, but the licensed line continued.

Hummel collecting expanded after World War II as American service members brought figurines home from Germany as souvenirs and gifts. Through the 1950s and 1960s, the figures became familiar in American display cabinets, and Goebel expanded production.

The collecting boom expanded through the late 20th century. Clubs, annual price guides, retirement announcements, and limited editions encouraged collectors to treat new issues differently from ordinary decorative ceramics. Goebel stopped producing M.I. Hummel figurines in 2008, but that was not the end of the trademark history: later production used newer marks. That matters because a guide ending at TMK-8 can misdate a legitimate later piece.

The Trademark System: Dating Your Hummel Figurines

If you take away one thing from this guide, let it be this: the underside is a packet of evidence, not a one-symbol price code. The trademark helps date production, the HUM number identifies the model, a suffix can distinguish size, and the M.I. Hummel signature helps separate licensed Hummel work from other Goebel products. Earlier marks can matter, but model, size, condition, repairs, completeness, and current demand can outweigh the mark.

Look carefully at the underside because some evidence is incised rather than painted. Record the full factory mark, the incised M.I. Hummel signature, the HUM number, any size suffix such as /0, /I, or /II, and painter or production marks. A Goebel trademark alone is not enough: Goebel used related marks on non-Hummel products too. The collector reference M.I. Hummel Glossary explains the HUM number, transitional marks, and current trademark, while its non-Hummel Goebel guide documents the identification trap.

Here’s a breakdown of each trademark period and what it means for value.

TMK-1: Crown Mark (1935–1949)

The Crown Mark is the earliest major trademark in this guide. It features a crown with the letters “WG” either beside or below the crown; some pieces show variants of the W. Goebel name. It was used from the beginning of figurine production in 1935 through the transition around 1949.

Crown Mark pieces deserve careful research because they are early and surviving condition varies widely. Do not apply a generic multiplier. Compare the same HUM number, size, trademark variant, and condition, and look closely for repairs or a copied mark.

If you find a Crown Mark, photograph the complete underside and the whole figurine before researching it. Familiar models such as “Merry Wanderer” (HUM 7) and “Sensitive Hunter” (HUM 6) were made in multiple eras and sizes, so the exact suffix and measurements matter.

TMK-2: Full Bee (roughly 1950–1957)

The Full Bee mark features a bumblebee flying inside the letter “V.” The bee is drawn large and naturalistic, clearly recognizable as an insect. This mark was used during the early 1950s, a period when Hummel production was ramping up to meet growing American demand but was still relatively modest compared to later decades.

Full Bee pieces are early postwar production and often attract closer collector attention. Compare the exact Full Bee variant and HUM number rather than multiplying a later-mark price. Collector date references differ slightly because marks overlapped during factory transitions.

TMK-3: Stylized Bee Variants (roughly 1960–1972)

The Stylized Bee evolved from the Full Bee. Collector references separate large and small stylized variants and give them overlapping windows from about 1960 into the early 1970s. Match the actual image instead of forcing every stylized bee into one narrow date range.

Stylized Bee figurines are old enough to justify a model-level comparison but common enough to appear regularly. Demand still depends on which figurine it is, its size and condition, and whether close sold examples exist.

TMK-4: Three Line Mark (1964–1972)

The Three Line Mark is exactly what it sounds like, the company name and information appear in three lines of text on the figurine’s base, along with a small stylized bee. This period represents the beginning of the mass production era, when Goebel significantly increased output to meet the booming American market.

TMK-4 overlaps the stylized-bee era, so transitional examples exist. Treat the three-line mark as dating evidence and compare it with the full underside rather than assigning a standard premium.

TMK-5: Last Bee Mark (1972–1979)

The Last Bee Mark features a small bee positioned above the text “W. Germany.” It represents the final use of the iconic bee trademark. Figurines from this period are extremely common in the market, as this was a high-volume production era coinciding with the height of Hummel’s popularity in American homes.

TMK-5 pieces are frequently encountered at thrift stores, estate sales, and online auctions. A common small single figurine may not justify an individual listing, while an unusual model, large size, group, or clean boxed example may. Let exact sold matches make that distinction.

TMK-6: Missing Bee Mark (1979–1991)

The Missing Bee Mark is so named because the bee symbol was finally dropped entirely. The mark simply reads “Goebel” with “W. Germany” below it. This is arguably the most commonly encountered mark, as it covers a 12-year production period during which Goebel was producing figurines at industrial scale.

TMK-6 is common in inherited collections and mixed resale lots. Do not assume it is worthless, but check whether the exact model has enough completed sales to justify the work of an individual listing. Bulk-lot results are not valid comps for a single clean figurine, and single-piece results do not predict a dealer’s bulk offer.

TMK-7: New Crown Mark (1991–2000)

Goebel reintroduced a crown motif for TMK-7, distinctly different from the original Crown Mark, with a stylized crown above the Goebel name. Many collections were assembled during this late-20th-century period, so old guidebook values and original retail prices should not be mistaken for current resale evidence.

TMK-7 pieces often appear in collections assembled during the late collecting boom. The mark is still only one variable: limited issues, size, model, box, and condition can separate an interesting piece from a common one.

TMK-8 and Later Marks (2000–present production)

TMK-8 is not the final Hummel mark. Goebel ceased Hummel production in 2008, but later manufacturers continued licensed production and introduced subsequent trademarks. The current-era handmade mark is commonly catalogued as TMK-11 and was introduced in December 2017. A recent mark can be legitimate even when it does not match an old TMK-1-through-TMK-8 chart.

Late production does not receive an automatic vintage premium, but limited editions, discontinued models, sizes, and present-day collector demand still need exact research. Do not reject a piece as fake merely because the guidebook stops before its mark.

Quick Reference: Hummel Trademark Dating Table

These are approximate collector windows, not day-level production dates. TMK-3 variants and TMK-4 overlap, and transitional pieces can carry evidence from more than one period. Photograph the full underside and compare the actual mark image with a current reference.

The Most Valuable Hummel Figurines

Not all Hummel figurines are created equal. The table below preserves the models worth separating from a mixed collection, but it intentionally does not freeze a 2026 price onto them. Search the full HUM number and suffix, trademark, size, condition, and whether a pair or group is complete.

Build several close sold matches rather than using the highest result. Accepted Best Offer prices, bundles, repaired examples, missing boxes, and different sizes can make superficially similar results incomparable.

Which Hummel Figurines Are Worth the Most?

Understanding which factors drive Hummel values will help you quickly evaluate any piece you encounter, whether you’re sorting through an inherited collection or scanning shelves at an estate sale.

Rare Figurines: HUM Numbers That Deserve Research

Certain Hummel model numbers are simply rarer than others, regardless of their trademark. Multi-figure groups like Adventure Bound (HUM 347) and Ring Around the Rosie (HUM 348) were expensive even at retail and were produced in smaller quantities than single-child figures. They also require more skilled craftsmanship, making them inherently more impressive display pieces.

The International Hummel sample figurines require specialist verification. The M.I. Hummel Glossary describes them as 1940 samples that were not accepted for production, with very few examples of each design. That history means an online title calling an ordinary figure “International” is not proof. Require exact reference images, underside evidence, measurements, and provenance before using rare-sample auction results.

“Closed number” is a collector term for a model number that was assigned but not kept in ordinary production. A missing number in one modern guide does not prove prototype status, a licensing dispute, scarcity, or value. Verify it in a specialist catalog and seek provenance for samples or prototypes before using those terms in a listing.

Models such as Auf Wiedersehen (HUM 153), The Mail Is Here (HUM 226), A Fair Measure (HUM 345), and large nativity groups (HUM 214 series) deserve exact research when found. Verify the suffix, trademark, completeness, components, and condition rather than treating the name as a guaranteed premium.

Size Matters: Match the Exact Version

Hummel figurines were produced in multiple sizes for many models. Suffixes such as /0, /I, /II, and /III distinguish versions, but do not assume the same physical scale across every HUM number. Record the full suffix and measurements; some models also have oversize versions.

Larger figurines often attract different buyers and can bring more than a smaller version, but size does not override model or condition. Record the suffix and actual measurements, then comp that size. Large pieces also have more fragile points and higher packing risk.

Table-lamp versions are a separate category and should be compared with lamps, not stand-alone figurines. Check the figurine, hardware, wiring, shade, repairs, and whether shipping is practical. Wall plaques and wall vases likewise need their own sold set rather than a generic Hummel range.

Early Marks on Common Models: Where Marks Make the Difference

This is where knowledge of the trademark system really pays off for resellers. The most common Hummel figurine models, designs like Merry Wanderer (HUM 7), Sensitive Hunter (HUM 6), Apple Tree Girl (HUM 141), Wayside Harmony (HUM 111), and Meditation (HUM 13), were produced continuously from the 1930s through the 2000s. The design stays essentially the same, but the value can vary enormously based on the mark.

Use recurring models such as Merry Wanderer (HUM 7), Apple Tree Girl (HUM 141), Sensitive Hunter (HUM 6), and Stormy Weather (HUM 71) to see why exact matching matters. Search one HUM number and size suffix across several trademark eras, then compare condition and sale format. The mark can change the result, but so can size, restoration, box, and whether the apparent sale was a bundle.

Color and Mold Variations: Subtle Differences to Verify

Over decades of production, Goebel adjusted molds, paint colors, and finishes. Documented examples can show different robes, accessories, faces, or surface appearance. Those characteristics can support a comparison, but they should not date a piece independently of the underside evidence.

Documented color variations can create a different comparison set, particularly when the HUM number, size, trademark, and other details match. First rule out fading, restoration, lighting, and ordinary hand-painted variation. Do not call a color “one-off” or small-run without catalog or provenance evidence.

Mold variations are another factor. Goebel periodically updated or replaced molds, and slight differences in pose, facial expression, base shape, or accessory details can distinguish an earlier mold from a later one. Collectors refer to these as “mold variations” or “model variations,” and certain versions are more sought-after than others. The most significant mold changes occurred in the 1950s and 1960s as Goebel modernized production techniques.

The Honest Truth: What Most Hummels Are Actually Worth

If you’ve inherited a large collection, do not multiply one attractive asking price by the number of pieces. Common single-child figurines, pairs, plates, bells, ornaments, music boxes, and mixed bulk lots each behave differently. Sample recent completed sales for every category, then pull out any unusual HUM number, size, early mark, group, pair, or boxed example for individual research.

Older price guides, purchase receipts, and insurance appraisals may still be useful identification records, but they are not current cash offers. Replacement cost, dealer retail, auction estimate, and net proceeds after a sale answer different questions.

Many common models face abundant supply from collections being downsized or inherited. That does not prove every segment is declining at the same rate; it means a seller needs current, model-specific evidence instead of a story about the category as a whole.

This is why both blanket assumptions fail. “All Hummels are valuable” overprices common inventory; “all Hummels are worthless” can bury an early, large, rare, or complete piece in a mixed lot. The practical edge is accurate sorting, not a promised return.

How to Identify and Authenticate Hummel Figurines

Proper identification is the foundation of useful valuation. M.I. Hummel figurines use a ceramic body commonly described by specialist references as earthenware, not simply generic porcelain. Here’s a systematic approach to evaluating one.

Reading the Bottom Markings

Support the figurine carefully, turn it over, and examine the base. You may find several markings:

The Trademark (TMK): This company or licensed-production mark helps place a figurine in an approximate period. Marks overlap and later licensed production exists, so it is not an exact manufacture date. Good lighting and magnification can help with incised marks.

The HUM Number: An incised number that identifies the figurine model. This number corresponds to the master catalog of Hummel figurines. For example, HUM 71 is always “Stormy Weather,” regardless of when it was made. The HUM number may be followed by a slash and a size indicator, HUM 71/I is a different size than HUM 71/0.

Country wording: “W. Germany,” “Western Germany,” and “Germany” can support a date hypothesis, but wording, trademark, mold, and production transitions can overlap. Use the entire underside rather than turning reunification into a hard one-word cutoff.

Painter’s or production marks: Small initials, numbers, or symbols may relate to decoration or production. Record them, but do not assign a painter or premium without a reliable reference.

“M.I. Hummel” Signature: This incised or printed signature should appear on authentic Hummel figurines. It’s modeled after Sister Maria Innocentia Hummel’s actual signature. Early pieces may have the signature written slightly differently than later ones.

Spotting Fakes and Reproductions

M.I. Hummel-style figures, non-Hummel Goebel products, reproductions, repairs, and misleading listings can all create confusion. The goal is to match the whole evidence packet, not to authenticate from one visual shortcut:

Paint quality: Fine hand painting can support an identification, but quality varies by era and condition. Crude work is a warning, not a verdict; copied pieces and legitimate damaged pieces can both look uneven.

Ceramic body: Weight and texture are supporting observations only. Do not authenticate a figurine by whether it feels dense, chalky, smooth, or rough. Compare the base, material, measurements, and marks with a documented example.

Mold sharpness: Lost detail can be a warning sign, but wear, glaze, lighting, photography, and model variation can also change what you see. Compare the same HUM number and size from several angles.

Markings: Match the factory mark, M.I. Hummel signature, HUM number, and size suffix as a set. Misspellings and impossible combinations are warnings. A mark absent from an old TMK-1-through-TMK-8 chart is not automatically wrong because legitimate later marks exist.

Size and proportion: A copied mold may produce size differences, but Hummel models also exist in official size variations. Record the suffix and measurements before treating size as evidence.

Condition Assessment

Condition dramatically affects Hummel values. Here’s what to look for:

Chips and nicks: Examine fingers, bird beaks, flower petals, hat brims, and the base rim under angled light. Avoid dragging bare skin across a sharp defect. Even a small chip can move the figurine into a different comp set; disclose its exact location.

Cracks: Hold the figurine up to a bright light and rotate it slowly. Hairlines may appear only at certain angles. Compare cracked examples with cracked examples rather than applying a universal discount.

Repairs and restorations: Repairs can be difficult to see. UV light may reveal a different response, but fluorescence is not conclusive by itself. Look for texture, color, glaze, and seam differences; disclose any uncertainty and compare restored examples separately from untouched ones.

Crazing: Fine networks of lines can appear on older figurines. Photograph them under angled light and compare similarly affected examples. Do not assume a trademark era makes crazing harmless or apply a generic premium to an uncrazed piece.

Fading and Discoloration: Prolonged sun exposure can fade paint colors, particularly reds and blues. Yellowing from smoke exposure is also common. Faded or discolored paint reduces value moderately.

Where to Find Valuable Hummels

If you’re a reseller looking to source Hummel figurines for profit, here are the best hunting grounds.

Estate Sales

Estate sales can surface intact collections with boxes or ownership history. A collection assembled earlier may include earlier marks, but the owner’s age and display cabinet are not substitutes for checking each underside.

Check marks without rushing fragile pieces. Early marks deserve attention, but later-mark rare models, large pieces, and multi-figure groups can also justify research. Use the actual purchase price, sold evidence, packing risk, fees, and time to decide whether the margin exists.

Thrift Stores

Thrift stores are unpredictable but do receive donated figurines and collections. Store pricing varies by location, so inspect the model, base, and condition before deciding that a low sticker price creates a good buy.

Check every base before purchasing, but do not buy the trademark alone. Chips, restoration, a common HUM number, weak demand, and fragile shipping can erase an apparent bargain. Run the exact sold search and deal math; no physical-inventory purchase is “essentially zero” risk.

Church Rummage Sales and Charity Shops

Hummel figurines have a strong cultural connection to churches and religious communities, and they frequently appear at church rummage sales, charity bazaars, and hospital auxiliary shops. Pricing at these venues tends to be even lower than thrift stores, and the volunteers running them rarely know the difference between marks.

Antique Shops and Malls

Antique shops are a mixed bag. Many antique dealers are knowledgeable about Hummel marks and price accordingly, which means you’re less likely to find underpriced gems. However, some dealers price all Hummels uniformly or price based on outdated guides. Multi-dealer antique malls can be particularly fruitful, as individual booth vendors have varying levels of expertise.

Online Auction Lots

eBay and other auction platforms frequently list Hummel figurines in mixed lots, “Box of 12 Hummel Figurines” or “Hummel Collection Estate Lot.” These bulk listings sometimes contain one or two valuable pieces mixed in with common figurines. Do your homework: ask for photos of the bases, identify the marks, and calculate whether the potentially valuable pieces justify the lot price.

How to Price Your Hummel Collection

If you’re trying to estimate what your Hummel collection could sell for, use a repeatable current-market method.

Step 1: Identify Each Piece. Flip the figurine over and note the HUM number and trademark mark. If you can read the HUM number, you can identify the figurine model using any Hummel reference (many free online databases exist).

Step 2: Search eBay Sold Listings. Go to eBay, search for the figurine by HUM number and mark (for example, “Hummel 71 Full Bee”), then filter by “Sold Items.” This shows you what actual buyers actually paid, not what sellers are asking, which is often wildly optimistic. Use our eBay Sold Link Generator to create these searches quickly.

Step 3: Compare Condition. Match your figurine’s condition to the sold examples. A mint figurine with original box will be at the top of the sold range. A figurine with a small chip will be at the bottom or below.

Step 4: Account for fees and fulfillment. Marketplace fees vary by category, store status, optional promotion, order amount, and policy changes. Use the marketplace’s current fee page and the Flip Profit Calculator with your own shipping and packing costs.

Critical warning: Do not substitute insurance replacement value, original retail price, or an old guidebook number for current sale evidence. Use completed-sale research, then distinguish individual sales from bundles, visible prices from accepted Best Offers, and gross price from your net proceeds. For estate, insurance, charitable-donation, or legal purposes, use the appropriate qualified appraiser rather than a marketplace search alone.

Best Platforms for Selling Hummel Figurines

Where you sell your Hummels matters. Different platforms work best for different types of pieces and different volumes.

eBay has a large searchable pool of Hummel listings and completed sales. Individual listings make sense when the expected net proceeds justify identification, photography, packing, and shipping. List the HUM number, size suffix, mark name, measurements, and disclosed condition; check eBay’s current selling-fee page for the category and account rather than assuming one percentage.

Etsy can fit qualifying vintage Hummel figurines when the listing meets Etsy’s current vintage and marketplace rules. Check its current listing, transaction, payment, and advertising costs before comparing the net with another venue.

Ruby Lane is a specialist antique and collectible marketplace that may suit a well-documented piece. Check its current shop requirements, fees, protections, and sell-through; no platform guarantees a higher result.

Facebook groups and Marketplace can connect local buyers and specialist communities. Group rules, payment method, shipping, scams, and buyer protection vary, so confirm the current process and never assume a transaction is fee-free or protected.

Whatnot is a live-selling option for sellers who already have the audience and process to run a themed sale. Review current category rules and fees, and do not assume an auction format will create competitive bidding for common pieces.

Local antique dealers can be efficient for a large collection of mostly common pieces. A dealer offer will reflect resale work, holding risk, and overhead, so compare the convenience with realistic net proceeds from selling individually. Pull out any uncertain early mark, rare model, large size, or complete group before requesting a bulk offer.

For a detailed comparison of selling platform fees and which works best for different items, check out our platform fee calculator and our complete guide to selling collectibles online. If you’re selling older pieces that qualify as antiques, our guide to selling antiques online covers additional specialized venues.

Shipping Hummel Figurines Safely

Hummel figurines are fragile ceramic objects. Here’s how to reduce shipping risk.

Use the Double-Box Method. Place the wrapped figurine in a snug inner box, then place that inner box inside a larger outer box with cushioning material between the two boxes. This creates two layers of protection and dramatically reduces breakage in transit.

Wrap each figurine individually. Use clean, non-abrasive tissue against the surface, then protective cushioning that does not press directly on fingers, hats, instruments, birds, or flower baskets. Support the body of the piece; do not create tight pressure points on fragile extensions.

Fill all gaps. The wrapped figurine should not shift inside the inner box, and the inner box should not shift inside the outer box. Test with careful hand pressure and a slight tilt rather than shaking a fragile collectible.

Choose coverage deliberately. Check the carrier’s current included coverage, exclusions, documentation rules, and claim limits for the exact service. Save the sold invoice and packing photographs. For higher-value shipments, compare additional coverage and signature services against the buyer, marketplace, and carrier requirements.

Carrier selection. No carrier or box is cheapest for every figurine. Measure and weigh the completed double box, then compare marketplace labels and carrier quotes. A flat-rate box is useful only if it leaves enough room for safe cushioning. For a deeper workflow, see the shipping guide for resellers.

Related reading: Pottery marks identification guide, Lladró figurines value guide, Occupied Japan figurines value guide, Royal Doulton figurines value lookup, Precious Moments value guide.

FAQ: Hummel Figurines Value Questions

Are there any Hummel figurines increasing in value?

Do not infer a trend from one sale or from the mark alone. If you want to test appreciation, compare repeat sales of the same HUM number, size, trademark, and condition across meaningful time periods, accounting for venue and fees. Rare samples and prototypes are especially unsuitable for a broad trend claim because transactions are sparse.

Are Hummel figurines still worth collecting?

Collect them because you enjoy the objects, not because a category-level guide can promise appreciation. For resale, profitability is piece-specific: purchase price, exact model and size, condition, current demand, fees, packing, and breakage risk all matter.

Where can I get Hummels appraised?

For insurance, estate, tax, or other formal purposes, use a qualified appraiser with relevant decorative-arts or ceramics experience and ask which value definition the report uses. For an ordinary resale decision, use exact completed sales and treat Underpriced as an identification and research aid, not an appraisal or authentication. A dealer offer answers a different question because it includes the dealer’s work and resale risk.

Are Hummel plates and bells worth anything?

Plates and bells need their own completed-sale searches because year, series, box, condition, and whether they are sold singly or in a lot change the result. Do not comp them against figurines or assume the original collector price survived.

Final Thoughts

The Hummel market in 2026 is a study in contrasts. A cabinet may combine abundant later production with an early mark, unusual size, matched pair, multi-figure group, or repaired piece. Neither the original collection total nor a generic percentage can replace an item-by-item sort.

Early trademarks, unusual HUM numbers, large sizes, multi-figure groups, and documented samples deserve deeper research. They do not guarantee profit. Exact identification, condition, purchase price, demand, fees, packing, and shipping determine whether a sourcing opportunity is real.

If you’re an inheritor deciding what to do with a collection, inventory the full underside, measurements, condition, boxes, pairs, and groups before selling or donating. Pull aside early marks, large versions, multi-figure groups, and unusual HUM numbers for individual research. Sell individually only when likely net proceeds justify the work; otherwise compare a documented bulk option.

If you’re a reseller, do not buy a Crown or Full Bee stamp in isolation. Buy only when the HUM number, size, condition, close sales, costs, and safe fulfillment leave a credible margin.

Use Underpriced to organize an identification lead from photos, then verify the HUM number, trademark, size, and condition yourself. Pair that with the eBay Sold Link Generator and Flip Profit Calculator before deciding what to buy or how to sell it.