Coins & Numismatics Flipping Guide: Make Money Reselling Collectible Currency in 2026

Few reselling niches offer the unique combination of safety, upside, and deep knowledge reward that coins and numismatics do. Every collectible coin has a built-in floor value tied to its precious metal content, which means even your worst purchases rarely become total losses. Meanwhile, a single key-date coin pulled from a junk box at an estate sale can net you thousands of dollars in profit.

Whether you are drawn to the history, the treasure-hunting thrill, or the straightforward math of buying silver below spot, this guide will walk you through everything you need to start flipping coins profitably in 2026. We will cover bullion basics, the key dates that command serious premiums, grading and authentication essentials, sourcing strategies, and exactly where and how to sell for maximum return.

Quick Stats: Coins & Numismatics Reselling at a Glance

Why Coin Flipping Is Profitable in 2026

The Precious Metal Safety Net

Unlike flipping vintage clothing or electronics, every silver or gold coin carries intrinsic metal value. A common-date Morgan silver dollar in rough shape is still worth at least $25–30 in melt value alone. That floor means even when you misjudge a coin’s collector premium, you can almost always recover most of your investment by selling it as bullion. This safety net makes coins one of the lowest-risk reselling categories you can enter.

Collector Premiums Above Melt

The real money in numismatics comes from the gap between what a coin is worth melted down and what a collector will pay for it. A 1921 Morgan dollar contains about $23 worth of silver at current spot prices, but a collector will pay $35–50 for one in decent condition. Find that same coin in a scarce date like 1893-S and suddenly you are looking at $3,000 or more. That spread between melt value and collector value is where your profit lives.

Growing Investor Interest

With ongoing inflation concerns and geopolitical uncertainty heading into 2026, precious metals continue to attract investor capital. Silver has been trading in the $28–35 per ounce range, and gold has pushed past $2,500. This rising tide lifts all coin values, both bullion and collectible pieces. More importantly, new investors entering the precious metals space often start with coins, which expands the buyer pool for resellers.

Generational Wealth Transfers

The baby boomer generation assembled some of the largest private coin collections in history. As these collections change hands through estate sales, inheritance, and downsizing, an enormous volume of coins is flowing into the secondary market. Heirs who do not understand what they have frequently sell collections at steep discounts, creating prime opportunities for knowledgeable resellers willing to do the homework.

Bullion Value vs. Numismatic Value: The Core Concept

Understanding the difference between bullion value and numismatic value is the single most important concept in coin flipping. Every decision you make flows from this distinction.

Melt Value (Bullion)

Melt value is simply what the raw metal in a coin is worth if you melted it down. A pre-1965 US quarter contains approximately 0.1808 troy ounces of silver. At $30 per ounce spot price, that quarter’s melt value is about $5.42. You can check current melt values for any US coin instantly at Coinflation.com.

Bullion coins like American Silver Eagles, Canadian Maple Leafs, and South African Krugerrands trade primarily on their metal content plus a small premium for the coin’s form factor and government guarantee. Margins on bullion flipping are thinner (15–30%) but volume is easy and risk is minimal.

Collector Premium (Numismatic)

Collector premium is the amount above melt value that buyers will pay based on rarity, condition, historical significance, and demand. Some coins are worth exactly their metal weight and nothing more. Others command 10x, 50x, or even 100x their melt value because of a rare mint mark, a low survival rate, or a famous error.

Example breakdown:

• 1964 Kennedy Half Dollar (common): Melt value ~$8.50, sells for ~$10–12. Small collector premium.
• 1916-D Mercury Dime: Melt value ~$2.15, sells for $500–2,000+. Massive collector premium due to mintage of only 264,000.
• 1893-S Morgan Dollar: Melt value ~$23, sells for $3,000–$6,000+. The king of Morgan dollar key dates with a mintage of just 100,000.

Your goal as a reseller is to identify coins where the seller is pricing at or near bullion value but the collector premium is significantly higher. That knowledge gap is your competitive advantage.

Silver Coins for Beginners: Where to Start

Silver coins are the ideal entry point for new coin flippers. The learning curve is manageable, the risk is low thanks to metal value, and the market is deep with active buyers.

Pre-1965 US “Junk Silver”

Any US dime, quarter, or half dollar minted in 1964 or earlier contains 90% silver. Dealers call these “junk silver” because the coins have no significant collector premium beyond their metal content. They trade in bulk based on face value — a $1 face value bag of junk silver contains about 0.715 troy ounces of pure silver.

• Dimes (Roosevelt, Mercury): $2–3 each in melt value
• Quarters (Washington): $5–7 each in melt value
• Half Dollars (Franklin, Walking Liberty, Kennedy 1964): $10–14 each in melt value

Junk silver is your bread and butter for learning the market. Buy at or slightly below spot from estate sales, garage sales, and pawn shops, then sell at a small premium on eBay or to local dealers. The margins are modest but the education is priceless.

American Silver Eagles

The US Mint’s flagship silver bullion coin contains one troy ounce of .999 fine silver. They typically trade at $30–40 each depending on spot price and dealer premiums. Eagles are the most liquid silver coin in the world — you can buy or sell them anywhere, anytime. Certain years carry premiums: the 1996 Eagle (lowest mintage of the series) regularly sells for $60–80+, and the 2021 Type 1 (final year of the original design) has a growing following.

Morgan and Peace Dollars

These large, heavy silver dollars are the gateway drug to serious numismatics. Common dates in circulated condition run $25–50, while better dates and higher grades can reach hundreds or thousands.

Morgan Dollars (1878–1921) — starter dates to learn:

• Common dates (1881-S, 1882-O, 1921): $30–45 in VF condition
• Better dates (1878-CC, 1884-CC): $150–400
• Key dates (1893-S, 1889-CC, 1895 Proof): $3,000–$50,000+

Peace Dollars (1921–1935):

• Common dates (1922, 1923, 1925): $25–35 in VF
• Better dates (1928): $250–400
• Key date (1921 High Relief): $100–200 in VG–VF

Walking Liberty Half Dollars (1916–1947)

Widely considered the most beautiful US coin design ever produced, Walking Liberty halves are popular with both collectors and silver stackers. Common dates trade near melt ($10–14), but early dates and mint marks carry significant premiums. The 1916-S and 1921-S are particularly valuable in higher grades. Even well-worn examples of scarce dates can bring $20–50 above melt — a nice margin when you buy them as junk silver.

Gold Coins: Higher Stakes, Higher Rewards

Gold coins require more capital but offer excellent opportunities for knowledgeable resellers. The key is understanding the premiums over spot price and knowing which coins collectors want.

American Gold Eagles

Available in 1 oz, 1/2 oz, 1/4 oz, and 1/10 oz sizes. These trade at a premium of 3–8% over spot gold for the 1 oz size and higher percentages for fractional sizes. They are the most liquid gold coins in the US market.

Pre-1933 US Gold

Before 1933, the United States minted gold coins in several denominations: $1, $2.50 (Quarter Eagle), $5 (Half Eagle), $10 (Eagle), and $20 (Double Eagle). These coins were pulled from circulation during the Gold Recall of 1933, and surviving examples carry both metal value and historical significance.

• $20 Liberty and Saint-Gaudens Double Eagles: $1,800–2,500+ for common dates in circulated grades. Key dates like the 1907 High Relief ($15,000+) and 1932 ($10,000+) command extreme premiums.
• $10 Eagles: $800–1,500+ for common dates.
• $5 Half Eagles: $500–1,000+ for common dates. Indian Head design (1908–1929) with its incuse (recessed) design is particularly collectible.
• $2.50 Quarter Eagles: $400–800+ for common dates. The Indian Head design (1908–1929) is a collector favorite.

International Gold

• South African Krugerrands: The original modern gold bullion coin. Trades close to spot with a 3–5% premium on the 1 oz size.
• Canadian Gold Maple Leafs: .9999 fine gold (higher purity than Eagles). Similar premiums to Krugerrands.
• British Sovereigns: Slightly smaller (0.2354 oz gold) but hugely popular worldwide. Common dates run $450–550.

Pro tip: Fractional gold (1/10 oz and 1/4 oz coins) carry disproportionately high premiums. A 1/10 oz Gold Eagle that contains $250 worth of gold might sell for $290–310. Those percentage margins are much better than full-ounce pieces.

Key Dates Every Reseller Must Know

These are the coins that can turn a $5 estate sale find into a four-figure payday. Memorize these dates and mint marks — they are the foundation of profitable coin picking.

Lincoln Pennies

• 1909-S VDB: $800–2,000+ depending on grade. Only 484,000 minted. The holy grail of Lincoln pennies. Check every 1909 penny for the “S” mint mark below the date and “VDB” initials on the reverse.
• 1914-D: $250–1,500+. Low mintage of 1.19 million. Frequently counterfeited, so authentication is critical.
• 1922 No D (Plain): $500–2,000+. A die error that omitted the Denver mint mark. Only coins from certain die pairs qualify.
• 1955 Doubled Die Obverse: $1,000–3,000+. Dramatic doubling visible on the date and lettering. One of the most famous US mint errors.
• 1943 Copper and 1944 Steel: Worth $100,000+ if genuine. Extremely rare errors where the wrong planchets were used. Be very skeptical of any you encounter — most are fakes or altered coins.

Mercury Dimes

• 1916-D: $500–2,000+ in circulated grades. Only 264,000 minted. Check every Mercury dime from the teens for the “D” mint mark.
• 1921 and 1921-D: $50–200+ in circulated grades. Low mintage years after a production gap.
• 1942/1 overdates: $500–2,000+. The “2” is clearly punched over a “1” in the date.

Washington Quarters

• 1932-D: $100–500+ in circulated grades. First year of issue, Denver mint. Only 436,800 struck.
• 1932-S: $100–400+. San Francisco counterpart with a mintage of 408,000.

Morgan Dollars

• 1893-S: $3,000–6,000+ in VG–VF. The undisputed king with only 100,000 minted.
• 1889-CC: $1,500–5,000+. Carson City mint coins always carry strong premiums.
• 1895 Proof: $30,000+. No business strikes were produced — only 880 proofs. Known as the “King of Morgan Dollars.”
• 1879-CC: $300–1,000+. Early Carson City issue.
• 1884-S: $200–2,000+ depending heavily on grade.

Error Coins: Where Mistakes Mean Money

Mint errors are among the most exciting and profitable finds in coin flipping. The US Mint’s quality control misses thousands of defective coins every year, and collectors pay enormous premiums for them.

Doubled Dies

When a die receives a second, misaligned impression during the hubbing process, it creates doubled lettering, dates, or design elements. The 1955 and 1972 Lincoln cent doubled dies are the most famous, but doubled dies exist across all denominations and years. Look for doubling on dates, “LIBERTY,” “IN GOD WE TRUST,” and “E PLURIBUS UNUM.”

Off-Center Strikes

Coins struck when the planchet was not properly centered in the press. A 5–10% off-center strike might add $5–20 to a coin’s value. A 50% off-center strike with a full, readable date can command $100–500+ depending on denomination. The date must be visible — off-center coins without readable dates are worth much less.

Wrong Planchet Errors

When a planchet intended for one denomination is fed into a press for another. A quarter struck on a dime planchet, for example, or a cent struck on a dime planchet. These are rare and valuable, often fetching $500–5,000+ depending on the combination.

Other Valuable Errors

• Broadstrikes: Coins struck without the collar die, resulting in wider, thinner coins. Worth $10–50 for modern issues.
• Clipped planchets: Coins with a crescent-shaped piece missing from the edge. Worth $5–30 for minor clips, more for dramatic clips.
• Die cracks and cuds: Raised lines or blobs from cracked dies. Minor cracks add a few dollars; major retained cuds can bring $50–200+.

Proof Sets and Mint Sets

The US Mint produces annual collector sets that offer a relatively accessible entry point for new resellers.

Proof Sets

Specially struck coins with mirror-like fields and frosted devices. The US Mint has produced annual proof sets since 1936 (with a gap from 1943–1949).

• Silver Proof Sets (1992–present): Contain 90% silver versions of the dime, quarter(s), and half dollar. Current year sets sell for $70–100. Older sets like 1992-S and 1993-S have appreciated to $80–150.
• Prestige Proof Sets (1983–1997): Included a commemorative dollar. The 1996 Prestige set (with the rowing commemorative silver dollar) sells for $300–450.
• Vintage Proof Sets (1950–1964): The 1950 set runs $500–700. The 1955 flat-pack set is worth $80–120.

Mint Sets (Uncirculated Sets)

Business-strike coins in uncirculated condition, packaged by the Mint. Less dramatic premiums than proof sets but steady sellers. The 1996 mint set, which included a bonus 1996-W Roosevelt dime (only way to obtain this coin), sells for $30–60.

Limited Editions and Commemoratives

US Mint limited-edition sets, First Spouse gold coins, and commemorative series can carry solid premiums, especially when mintages are low. Track US Mint sales figures — when a product sells out quickly, secondary market prices typically jump within weeks.

Grading Basics: The Language of Coin Value

Coin grading is the single biggest factor in determining a coin’s price. A one-point difference on the grading scale can mean hundreds or thousands of dollars in value. Learning to grade accurately takes years of practice, but understanding the system is essential from day one.

The Sheldon Scale

All US coins are graded on the Sheldon numerical scale from 1 to 70:

The jump from AU-58 to MS-60 (the circulated/uncirculated boundary) is often the biggest price jump on the scale. For a common-date Morgan dollar, AU-58 might sell for $50 while MS-63 brings $80 and MS-65 commands $200+.

PCGS vs. NGC: The Two Grading Services

Two companies dominate third-party coin grading:

• PCGS (Professional Coin Grading Service): Generally considered the industry standard. PCGS-graded coins tend to command slight premiums over NGC in the US market.
• NGC (Numismatic Guaranty Company): Equally respected and widely accepted. NGC coins sometimes trade at a small discount to PCGS equivalents, which can actually be an arbitrage opportunity.

Both services encapsulate (“slab”) coins in tamper-evident plastic holders with the grade printed on the label. This holder serves as both protection and authentication.

Raw vs. Graded: The Premium Question

Graded (slabbed) coins sell for 20–50% more than equivalent raw coins. The slab provides buyer confidence in authenticity and grade, which translates directly to higher prices and faster sales. However, grading costs $20–50+ per coin at the basic service level, so it only makes economic sense for coins worth $100 or more.

When to get coins graded:

• Any coin you believe is worth $150+ raw
• Key dates in any condition
• Coins in apparent Mint State or Proof condition
• Error coins with significant premiums
• Any coin where authentication concerns exist

Authentication: Protecting Yourself From Counterfeits

The counterfeit coin market has exploded in the past decade, with high-quality fakes — primarily from China — flooding online marketplaces, flea markets, and even some coin shows. Learning basic authentication is not optional; it is a survival skill.

The Weight Test

Every US coin has a precise specified weight. A genuine Morgan dollar weighs 26.73 grams. A genuine American Silver Eagle weighs 31.1 grams. Invest $20–30 in a precision digital scale that reads to 0.01 grams. If a coin’s weight is off by more than 0.1–0.2 grams from the specification, it is almost certainly fake.

The Diameter Test

US coins have precise diameters. A genuine Morgan dollar is 38.1mm. Pick up a set of digital calipers ($15–25) and measure any coin you are considering purchasing. Counterfeiters often get the weight close by using the correct metal but slightly adjust the diameter or thickness.

The Magnet Slide Test

Silver and gold are not magnetic. Place a strong neodymium magnet on a coin tilted at a 45-degree angle. On genuine silver, the magnet will slide slowly down the surface due to electromagnetic interaction (Lenz’s law). On fake coins made from ferrous metals, the magnet will stick. On non-ferrous fakes (copper-nickel), the magnet will slide quickly with no resistance. The slow slide of genuine silver is distinct and something you will learn to recognize with practice.

The Ping/Ring Test

When balanced on a fingertip and gently tapped, genuine silver coins produce a distinctive, sustained high-pitched ring that lasts several seconds. Base metal fakes produce a dull, flat sound that dies quickly. Free smartphone apps like CoinTester can analyze the acoustic signature and compare it to known genuine examples.

Visual Inspection

Study the details of genuine coins using high-resolution images from PCGS CoinFacts or NGC’s coin explorer. Counterfeits often have mushy details, incorrect font styles, wrong texture on the edge reeding, or a “greasy” surface appearance. The more genuine coins you handle, the faster your eye will develop for spotting fakes.

Golden rule: If a deal seems too good to be true, it almost always is. A 1893-S Morgan dollar at a flea market for $200 is not a bargain — it is a fake.

Pricing Resources: Know What Coins Are Worth

Accurate pricing knowledge separates profitable resellers from hobbyists who break even. Here are the essential tools:

• PCGS Price Guide (pcgs.com/prices): Free online tool covering virtually every US coin. Shows estimated values by grade. Updated regularly and considered the industry standard for retail pricing.
• NGC Price Guide (ngccoin.com/price-guide): Similar coverage to PCGS with slightly different value estimates. Cross-referencing both gives you a reliable range.
• Coinflation.com: The essential melt value calculator. Enter current metal spot prices to see the exact bullion value of any US silver or gold coin. Bookmark this one.
• eBay Sold Listings: The single most accurate indicator of actual market prices. Search for the specific coin, filter by “Sold Items,” and sort by most recent. This tells you what real buyers are actually paying right now — not what price guides think coins should be worth.
• The Red Book (A Guide Book of United States Coins): Published annually since 1947. The classic reference for mintage figures, variety identification, and retail pricing. Buy a new copy each year ($15) or use the older edition you can find for $5 at used bookstores.
• Underpriced App: Use the Underpriced app to quickly analyze potential flips and track your reselling profits. The eBay fee calculator is particularly useful for understanding your true net after eBay and PayPal fees on coin sales.

Sourcing: Where to Find Coins Below Market Value

Estate Sales and Auctions

This is the single best sourcing channel for coin flippers. When non-collector heirs liquidate a collection, they frequently price coins at face value, metal weight, or well below collector premiums. Arrive early, bring your phone for quick lookups, and be prepared to buy entire collections to get the gems mixed in with common material.

Coin Shows

Local and regional coin shows happen nearly every weekend across the country. These are invaluable for building relationships with dealers, learning to grade by examining inventory, and finding deals late in the show when dealers are motivated to reduce their load before packing up. Sunday afternoon at a coin show is prime buying time.

Coin Roll Hunting (CRH)

Order boxes of coins from your bank ($25 face value box of half dollars, $500 face value box of pennies) and search through them for silver, errors, and key dates. It is practically free — you return what you do not want to a different bank. Realistic expectations: one box of half dollars ($500 face) typically yields 2–5 silver halves worth $5–14 each. The hourly rate is modest but the education is tremendous, and the occasional big find makes it worthwhile.

Pawn Shops

Most pawn shop employees are not coin experts. They typically price coins at metal weight or slightly above. Visit regularly, build rapport, and ask to be called when coin collections come in. You will not find key dates often, but bulk silver at or near melt is common and flippable.

Garage and Yard Sales

Ask every garage sale if they have any old coins. Many people have small accumulations they have never thought to sell separately. You will strike out nine times out of ten, but the tenth time you might buy a coffee can of pre-1965 quarters for $20 that contains $80 in silver value.

Online Buying

Platforms like eBay, Facebook Marketplace, and Craigslist have coins listed daily. The competition is higher online, but misspelled listings, poor photos, and incorrect categorization create opportunities. Search for common misspellings like “Morgon dollar” or “Mercury dime siver” to find listings that other buyers miss.

Selling: Maximizing Your Return

eBay (Largest Market)

eBay remains the dominant marketplace for coins, offering the biggest buyer pool and highest realized prices. The current fee structure runs approximately 13.25% of the total sale (including shipping) for coins and paper money.

Tips for maximizing eBay coin sales:

• Photograph both sides of every coin with good lighting — natural daylight or a daylight LED lamp works best
• Include measurements and weight in the listing
• Mention the specific grade (even your estimate for raw coins) and any notable characteristics
• Use auction format for rare or key-date coins to let the market set the price
• Use Buy It Now for common bullion items where the value is well-established
• Run your final sale price through the eBay fee calculator before listing to ensure your margins work

Coin Shows and Local Dealers

Selling directly to dealers at coin shows or local coin shops gives you instant cash with zero fees and zero shipping hassle. The trade-off is price — expect to receive 60–70% of retail value. This channel is best for common material, bulk silver, and coins you want to move quickly.

Reddit Communities

r/Coins4Sale and r/Pmsforsale (Precious Metals for Sale) are active Reddit communities where collectors and stackers buy and sell directly. Fees are nearly zero (just PayPal or payment processing), and prices typically land between dealer buy and eBay sold prices. You will need to build feedback first by making some purchases, but once established, these communities move coins fast.

Bullion Dealers

Companies like APMEX, JM Bullion, and SD Bullion have buyback programs for bullion coins and bars. The prices are typically 1–3% below spot for generic silver and at or slightly above spot for government-issued bullion. This is the fastest, easiest way to liquidate bullion positions when you want out.

Shipping Coins Safely

Coins are small, dense, and valuable — a combination that demands careful shipping practices.

Packaging

• Individual coins: Place in 2x2 cardboard flips or plastic capsules. Tape the flip shut so the coin cannot shift or fall out.
• Graded/slabbed coins: Wrap in bubble wrap. PCGS and NGC slabs are sturdy but not indestructible.
• Padded mailers: Use a bubble mailer as your outer container for single coins or small lots. For larger shipments, use a small Priority Mail box.
• Never ship coins in a regular envelope. Processing machines will destroy the envelope, and the coins will be lost.
• Tape your package shut thoroughly. Use clear packing tape on all seams.

Insurance and Registered Mail

• USPS First Class with tracking: Appropriate for items under $50 in value. Basic insurance included.
• USPS Priority Mail: Includes $50 of insurance and tracking. Good for items valued $50–200.
• USPS Registered Mail: The gold standard for shipping valuable coins. Available insurance up to $50,000. Everything in the registered mail chain is signed for, locked, and documented. Slower (5–10 days) but extremely secure. Required by most insurance policies for high-value shipments.
• Insure everything. If a $500 coin disappears in transit with no insurance, that is $500 out of your pocket.

Legal and Tax Considerations

Sales Tax

Many US states exempt precious metals and coins from sales tax, but the rules vary widely. Some states exempt only bullion, others include numismatic coins, and threshold amounts differ. Check your state’s specific rules. As of 2026, over 40 states offer some form of precious metals tax exemption.

Reporting Requirements

• Cash transactions over $10,000: Must be reported to the IRS via Form 8300. This applies to single transactions or related transactions within a 24-hour period. This is a legal reporting obligation, not a tax — but failure to report carries severe penalties.
• 1099-B reporting: Precious metals dealers are required to file 1099-B forms for certain sales. Specifically, this applies to sales of 25 or more 1-ounce Gold Eagles, 1,000 or more ounces of silver bars or rounds, and other specific quantities. Individual collector coin sales to other individuals typically do not trigger 1099-B reporting.
• Capital gains: Collectible coins are taxed at the collectibles capital gains rate, which is currently a maximum of 28% for long-term gains (held over one year). Short-term gains are taxed as ordinary income. Keep detailed records of your purchase price, date, and sale price for every coin.

Disclaimer: Tax law is complex and changes frequently. Consult a tax professional familiar with precious metals and collectibles for advice specific to your situation.

Building Your Numismatic Knowledge

The coin market rewards expertise more than almost any other reselling category. Every hour you spend studying coins translates directly to your ability to spot underpriced inventory. Here is how to accelerate your learning:

• Handle as many coins as possible. Attend coin shows, visit coin shops, and join a local coin club. There is no substitute for seeing and touching real coins.
• Study PCGS CoinFacts and NGC Coin Explorer. These free online resources have high-resolution images, population reports, and auction records for virtually every US coin.
• Read the Cherrypickers’ Guide. This book catalogs valuable die varieties that most sellers overlook. Knowing these varieties is like having a secret price guide that few competitors possess.
• Track the Underpriced app regularly to stay current with pricing trends and profitable flip opportunities.
• Start a type set. Collecting one example of each major US coin design teaches you to recognize series, dates, and mint marks instinctively.
• Join online communities. r/coins, r/CoinCollecting, and the PCGS and NGC forums are full of experienced collectors who freely share knowledge.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best coin to start flipping for beginners?

Pre-1965 US silver quarters and dimes (“junk silver”) are the best starting point. They are easy to authenticate, price based on metal content, and sell quickly. You can start with as little as $50–100 and learn the fundamentals of buying, pricing, and selling without risking significant capital. Once comfortable, move into Morgan dollars and then key dates.

How much money do I need to start flipping coins?

You can start with as little as $200 for basic junk silver and common circulated coins. A budget of $500–1,000 gives you more flexibility to buy better material. Serious coin flippers typically work with $2,000–5,000+ in rotating inventory. Start small, reinvest your profits, and scale as your knowledge grows.

Are cleaned coins worth buying?

Generally, no. Cleaning a coin dramatically reduces its value — a cleaned coin might be worth 30–70% less than an equivalent uncleaned example. However, there is a small opportunity in buying cleaned coins at appropriate discounts and selling them to buyers who prioritize the date and type over condition. Learn to recognize cleaning (hairline scratches visible under magnification, unnatural luster, dull or dipped appearance).

How do I tell if a coin is counterfeit?

Use the four-test approach: weight (precision scale), diameter (calipers), magnet slide test (neodymium magnet on silver), and the ping/ring test (sustained high-pitched ring on genuine silver). Beyond physical tests, study known genuine examples to develop your eye for correct design details, font styles, and surface texture. When in doubt, do not buy, or buy only at a price where you would not lose money if it turns out to be fake.

Is coin roll hunting worth the time?

It depends on your goals. The hourly rate for coin roll hunting is modest — perhaps $5–15/hour on average. But it is free to enter (you return unwanted coins), it teaches you to quickly scan and identify coins, and occasional big finds boost your returns significantly. Many successful coin flippers started with CRH and still do it casually. If nothing else, it trains your eye for dates and mint marks.

Should I get my coins graded by PCGS or NGC?

Get coins professionally graded when they are worth $150+ raw and when the graded premium would significantly exceed the grading cost ($20–50). Choose PCGS for maximum resale value in the US market, though the difference is small. NGC is equally respected and sometimes the better choice for world coins. Do not get common, low-value coins graded — the cost of grading would exceed the value increase.

What is the difference between spot price and premium?

Spot price is the current market price for one troy ounce of raw silver or gold on the commodities exchange. Premium is the amount above spot that you pay for a coin in its minted form. A Silver Eagle might trade at spot plus $5–8 (the premium). Collector coins have additional premium based on rarity and demand that goes far beyond the bullion premium.

Where can I sell coins fastest?

For bullion, selling to a local coin dealer or bullion company (APMEX, JM Bullion) is fastest — often same-day payment. For collector coins, eBay auctions with 7-day listings reach the most buyers and typically yield the best prices. Reddit communities (r/Coins4Sale, r/Pmsforsale) can also move coins within hours if priced competitively. Coin shows offer instant cash for any type of coin.

Are foreign coins worth flipping?

Some foreign coins are excellent flips, particularly British sovereigns, Canadian Maple Leafs, Mexican silver libertads, and Chinese pandas. The key is knowing your market — foreign coins generally have a smaller US buyer pool than domestic coins, so they may sit longer. Focus on well-known international bullion coins and historically significant pieces (ancient coins, crown-sized silver from the 1800s) rather than obscure modern foreign coins.

How do I store coins safely?

Store raw coins in chemically inert 2x2 cardboard or Mylar flips, never in PVC-containing soft plastic flips (PVC damages coins over time, creating a green, oily residue). Keep graded coins in their slabs. Store your inventory in a fireproof safe or a bank safe deposit box for high-value items. Control humidity — use silica gel packets in your storage area. Handle coins by the edges only, never touch the faces, and consider wearing cotton gloves when examining valuable pieces.

Start Building Your Coin Flipping Business Today

Coin flipping sits at the intersection of treasure hunting, history, and smart investing. The precious metal safety net means your downside risk is limited, while the upside on key dates and errors is virtually unlimited. The market rewards knowledge above all else, which means the more you learn, the more you earn.

Start with junk silver to learn the fundamentals. Graduate to Morgan dollars and type coins as your grading eye develops. Eventually, you will walk into an estate sale, spot a key date that everyone else overlooked, and understand exactly why this niche is worth mastering.

Use the Underpriced app to track your flips, analyze margins in real time, and build your reselling business with confidence. The coin market has been active for centuries — and in 2026, the opportunities are as good as they have ever been.