Stop Underselling: How to Price Your Flips Using Real Market Data

You listed that vintage band tee for $25 and it sold in 3 hours. Great, right?

Not really. Because you just checked sold listings and realized similar shirts have been selling for $60-80. You left $35-55 on the table.

Underselling is one of the most common mistakes in reselling, and it’s completely preventable. Here’s how to price your flips using real market data so you stop leaving money behind.

Why Resellers Undersell (And Why It Hurts)

There are a few reasons people underprice their items:

They want quick sales: There’s something satisfying about instant sales. But optimizing for speed often means sacrificing profit.

They didn’t do research: They guessed at a price instead of checking what similar items actually sell for.

They undervalued what they have: Maybe they didn’t know that particular brand, era, or style is in demand.

They’re scared of sitting on inventory: Fear of items not selling leads to pricing below market value.

Here’s the thing: a $60 sale that takes two weeks beats a $25 sale that happens instantly. You made $35 more for the same amount of listing work.

If you’re underselling consistently, you’re working twice as hard for half the money.

Step 1: Always Check Sold Comps (Not Asking Prices)

This is rule number one and it’s non-negotiable.

Before you set any price, check what similar items have actually sold for. Not what people are asking. What buyers actually paid.

On eBay:

1. Search for your item
2. Filter by “Sold Items”
3. Look at the last 30-60 days

On Poshmark:

1. Search for the item
2. Filter by “Sold”
3. Check recent sales

The asking prices on active listings are fantasy numbers. Sold prices are reality. Price based on reality.

Step 2: Identify What Makes Your Item Valuable

Not all versions of the same item are worth the same. Details matter:

For Clothing:

• Brand and sub-brand (Polo Ralph Lauren vs RRL are very different values)
• Era/Vintage vs. modern
• Size (some sizes sell better than others)
• Colorway (certain colors are more desirable)
• Condition (new with tags vs. used)
• Made in USA vs. imported
• Special editions or collaborations

For Electronics:

• Model number (not just brand)
• Included accessories
• Working condition
• Cosmetic condition
• Original packaging

For Collectibles:

• Rarity and production numbers
• Condition and completeness
• Authentication potential
• Current trend/demand

A “Nike jacket” could be worth $15 or $150 depending on these factors. Know what you have before you price it.

Step 3: Find the Right Comps

Bad comps lead to bad pricing. You need to compare your item to items that actually match.

Good comp criteria:

• Same brand and model/style
• Same or similar condition
• Same size or size category
• Sold within the last 60 days
• On the same platform you’re selling on

Red flags in comps:

• Much better or worse condition than yours
• Different variant (limited edition vs. standard)
• Very old sale data (90+ days)
• Auction results (can vary wildly from Buy It Now)
• Sales that look like outliers (way higher or lower than others)

If you can find 5-10 good comps, you’ll have a solid pricing range to work with.

Step 4: Price for the Top Half, Not the Bottom

Here’s where most underselling happens. People see a range of sold prices and price at the bottom “to be competitive.”

Wrong approach.

If you see comps at $40, $45, $50, $55, and $75, don’t price at $40 thinking it’ll sell faster. You’re just guaranteeing you make less money.

Instead:

1. Remove obvious outliers (that $75 might have been a bidding war)
2. Look at the realistic range ($40-55)
3. Price in the middle to upper range ($50-55)
4. Adjust based on your item’s condition relative to comps

If your item is in great condition, price at the top of the range. If it’s average, price in the middle. Only price at the bottom if your item is worse than most comps.

Step 5: Consider Platform Differences

The same item can sell for different amounts on different platforms:

eBay: Generally highest prices for most items due to largest buyer pool. Best for vintage, collectibles, electronics.

Poshmark: Strong for higher-end clothing brands. Prices often higher than eBay for premium fashion.

Mercari: Usually slightly lower prices than eBay. Good for quick sales at moderate prices.

Facebook Marketplace: Varies wildly. Can get great prices locally for bulky items, but shipped items often sell for less.

Depop: Younger demographic. Certain aesthetics and brands command premium prices here.

If you’re selling vintage Levi’s, check what they sell for on Depop (probably high) vs. eBay (also high but different buyer). Same jeans, potentially different optimal price and platform.

Step 6: Account for Your Photos and Listing Quality

This matters more than people realize.

Bad photos and sparse descriptions = lower final prices, even for the same item.

Good photos and detailed descriptions = higher prices and faster sales.

If your comps have professional-looking photos with mannequins and good lighting, and your photos are dark bathroom mirror selfies, you shouldn’t expect to match their prices.

Quick photo upgrades:

• Natural lighting or a simple ring light
• Clean, uncluttered background
• Multiple angles (front, back, tags, any flaws)
• Flat lay or mannequin display
• Close-ups of important details

Listing improvements:

• Complete measurements
• Detailed condition description
• Material composition
• Era or date if vintage
• Relevant keywords in title

Better presentation = higher prices. It’s that simple.

Step 7: Don’t Race to the Bottom

When your item doesn’t sell immediately, the temptation is to drop the price. Sometimes that’s right. Often it’s not.

Before lowering your price, ask:

1. Has it been listed long enough? Some items take 30-60 days to find the right buyer.
2. Are there seasonal factors? Winter coats sell poorly in June.
3. Is my listing quality good? Maybe better photos would help more than a lower price.
4. Am I reaching the right audience? Maybe it should be on a different platform.
5. Did I price it based on data? If yes, trust your research.

Dropping price should be a last resort, not a first reaction.

When you do drop prices, do it strategically:

• Small increments (5-10%) not giant cuts
• After reasonable time (2-4 weeks minimum)
• Consider sending offers to watchers instead of public price drops

Step 8: Use the “Would I Be Mad” Test

Here’s a simple gut check after you’ve done your research:

If this item sells in the next hour at this price, would I be happy or mad?

If you’d be happy, your price is probably right.

If you’d feel that twinge of “ugh, I probably could have gotten more,” your price is too low.

This isn’t scientific, but it catches those moments where you know you’re underselling but are doing it anyway out of impatience.

Real Example: Pricing a Vintage Starter Jacket

Let’s walk through an actual pricing decision:

Item: Vintage 90s Starter Chicago Bulls pullover jacket, Size L, good condition

Research:

• eBay sold listings show: $45, $52, $58, $65, $68, $72, $95, $125
• Most sales cluster around $52-72
• The $95 and $125 were BNWT (new with tags)
• Mine is used, good condition, minor wear

Analysis:

• Remove the $95 and $125 (those are NWT, mine isn’t)
• Remove the $45 (that was a rough condition one)
• Realistic range for my condition: $52-72
• My condition is toward the better end of “used”

Pricing Decision: List at $68 with free shipping

Result: Sold in 9 days for $68

If I had gotten scared and listed at $45 “to sell fast,” I would have left $23 on the table. For the same amount of work.

The Long Game of Proper Pricing

Here’s what happens when you consistently price based on data:

Month 1: Maybe sell fewer items, but at higher prices Month 3: Average profit per item increases significantly
Month 6: You’re making more money with the same (or less) inventory Year 1: You’ve probably made hundreds or thousands more than you would have underselling

Proper pricing compounds. Every item you price correctly is more money in your pocket. That adds up fast.

When It’s Actually Okay to Price Low

There are legitimate reasons to price below market:

• You need cash flow immediately
• Item has been sitting for 90+ days despite good listing
• Seasonal item and the season is ending
• You got it for basically free and any profit is fine
• You’re clearing out to make room for better inventory

The key is making this a conscious decision, not a default habit.

The Bottom Line

Stop underselling. It’s leaving real money on the table every single day.

Before you price any item:

1. Check sold comps (not asking prices)
2. Find 5-10 similar items that actually match yours
3. Price in the middle-to-upper range based on your condition
4. Make sure your listing quality supports your price
5. Trust your research and be patient

Price based on data, not fear. Your profits will thank you.